Why did fashion brands replace models with AI?

The topic of AI models is gaining popularity in the fashion industry—characters generated by artificial intelligence promoting clothing instead of real живых people. Commercial model Sarah Murray publicly expressed concern about the replacement of personalities with digital versions.

Debates regarding the ethics of this approach sharply increased after the release of the July issue of Vogue, which featured an advertisement using a girl generated by artificial intelligence. She embodied traditional North American beauty ideals: a slim physique, light hair, and sensuous pink-toned lips.

The AI model created from the controversial Vogue advertisement. Source: Technology. The appearance of this digital creation in a prestigious fashion publication shocked the entire industry. As the ultimate arbiter of taste, Vogue's decision carries unprecedented weight in legitimizing technological innovations.

Experts emphasized that this step brought fundamental questions to the surface: if a complex creative product can be created instantly and with minimal costs, what value proposition do people offer? What will happen to the numerous workforce: models, photographers, stylists, designers?

Who uses AI models?

As of August 2025, a number of large and small companies are actively using virtual models for clothing advertising instead of real people. Bright examples:

• Levi’s announced a partnership in 2023 with the startup Lalaland.ai, which is engaged in the creation of photorealistic AI models of various heights, ages, and skin colors;
• Calvin Klein used artificial intelligence to generate models in advertising campaigns, including on social media and online catalogs;
• Zalando — a German retailer tested image generation so that users could try on clothes on virtual models with different body parameters;
• H&M — uses AI models in online catalogs;
• DressX — a digital fashion brand entirely based on virtual clothing and AI models. It allows users to "try on" items in AR and use them for social media;
• The Fabricant — a Dutch digital fashion company that produces clothing exclusively in digital form, using AI for modeling and showcasing;
• Prada, Gucci, Balenciaga — use virtual influencers and CGI models.

This approach allows brands to save on shooting and logistics, quickly create images in different styles, sizes, and appearances, provide customization options, and adapt to trends more quickly.

Implementation cannot be prohibited

Co-founder of the advertising AI company Silverside AI PJ Pereira noted that the new approach is related to the issue of scalability.

"Marketing systems of fashion brands are initially designed for creating four major campaigns a year. But social media and e-commerce have changed everything: now it takes from 400 to 400,000 content pieces. Traditional methods cannot cope physically," he said.

Murray emphasized that the use of artificial intelligence reduces costs but raises doubts about the sincerity of brand statements. She questions whether AI truly complements rather than replaces live models—especially considering how many real people are seeking opportunities to work with large companies.

In her opinion, this shift will disproportionately affect "atypical" commercial models, including diverse appearances. As an example, she cites a Levi's advertisement, in which the brand simply generated "digital diversity" instead of hiring real models of different types.

Some consider the creation of digital copies an acceptable solution in the age of AI. Former model and founder of Model Alliance Sara Ziff advocates for the adoption of the Fashion Workers Act, which mandates obtaining consent and compensation for the use of virtual alternatives. This will allow models to "attend" multiple shoots simultaneously and earn additional income.

At the same time, competition is intensifying. The model and founder of the WAYE organization, Sinéad Bovell, notes that people have to compete with bright, unconventional digital images. She recommends developing a personal brand, using podcasts, ambassadorship, and other sources of income.

Fashion house working art technologist Pol Muzhino noted that people have a tendency to strive for a "sensual reality", a light imperfection, and human contact.

"Many successful models have reached great heights precisely because of features — teeth, gaze, expression — that are imperfect, but charming," he emphasized.

While Experimenting

The founder of the modeling booking platform Ubooker, Claudia Wagner, believes that AI modeling in fashion is still experimental. Her team found Guess's advertisement technically interesting, but not innovative and ineffective.

She and Pereira believe that artificial intelligence will remain in the industry. It will either be integrated into creative processes, or brands will license the images of living people to create synthetic scenes. Some companies are currently avoiding this, fearing negative reactions from the audience.

Recall that in July, Google launched a new AI feature that allows users to try on clothes virtually.